Laying paving slabs on soil: a guide for beginners

If you’re wondering if it’s possible to lay paving slabs on soil, then we’re here to tell you that it’s entirely possible! 

With a few best practices and expert tips, you can create a long-lasting garden path or patio on top of soil from home. It’s the perfect way to upgrade your garden in time for summer and add more functional areas to the space. 

However, placing paving slabs on soil can be tricky; different soil types can make creating an even and stable base difficult, and the soil can cause issues over time, including cracking, shifting, and sinking. 

To help you avoid these issues and create a pavement that you’ll love for years to come, follow our guide below on laying paving slabs on soil for beginners. 

First things first: the pros and cons

While it’s perfectly fine to lay paving slabs on soil, like anything else, there are a few benefits and risks. 

Before you jump into the task, it’s best to make sure whether laying paving slabs on soil is the best option for your project. 

Pros	Cons
Simple process: No advanced skills or tools are required.	Weed growth: Placing paving on soil can cause weeds to grow through the flags if not properly sealed or maintained.
Quick installation: Patio slabs are quick to install on soil, as long as you prepare efficiently.	Risk of uneven surface: The slabs may become uneven and create an unsteady surface if the soil isn’t properly compacted.
Cost-effective: Laying slabs on soil requires fewer materials compared to other base types, reducing costs.	Less durable: Without a solid sub-base, slabs may shift, crack, or sink over time as the soil moves.
DIY approved: Paving slabs can be installed on soil from home, saving time and money on hiring a professional.	No long-term guarantee: Using soil as a sub-base doesn’t offer as much longevity as a concrete base.
Flexible design: Paving slabs can be arranged and readjusted with ease on soil, allowing you to fix the layout.	Weather damage: Areas with heavy rainfall or frost can lead the soil to shift and loosen the paving slabs.
Ideal for low-traffic areas: It’s perfect for decorative paths or light garden walkways, where a solid base may not be necessary.

Tools and materials checklist 

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, if you’ve decided to stick around, then we can get right into the nitty-gritty of the installation process.

But first, you’ll need to gather the following: 

• Paving slabs
• Sub-base material (MOT type-1 or crushed hardcore)
• Sharp sand
• String and stake
• Shovel and rake
• Cement
• Edge restraints
• Rubber mallet
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• Plate compactor
• Wheelbarrow

PPE: It’s important to invest in some good, sturdy work boots, a face mask to avoid breathing in debris, and glasses to protect your eyes from flying materials. 

When storing paving slabs, raise them off the ground on a piece of wood to lift them from the ground— it keeps them clean and safe from water damage and prevents them from warping. 

A step-by-step guide to laying paving slabs on soil

Once you’ve gathered all of the necessary materials and tools, it’s time to create a beautiful new path or patio area for your garden. 

Before we do anything, you need to make sure the soil is sturdy and healthy enough to lay down paving slabs. You can do this by performing a hand test— squeeze the soil, and if it holds its shape, then it’s good to go. 

If it crumbles in your hand, you’ll need to improve drainage by installing a thicker and more compacted sub-base for clay-heavy soil areas. Loam soil (slightly clumpy and wet) is the best type of soil for laying paving slabs.

Prepare the site

1. Mark out the area

Once you’ve confirmed the soil is healthy (you can also use a soil test for more accurate results), use a rake to remove any grass, weeds, roots, or debris. 

Mark out the area where you will be laying the paving with string and stakes to avoid digging up too much ground.

2. Excavate the ground

Then, dig a depth of around 150mm (6 inches) into the soil to make a dent for the sharp sand, sub-base, and paving slabs to sit in.

You can use a spirit level to make sure the ground is even as you’re digging. It’s best to dig a slight slope in the ground away from your home to prevent water pooling in your garden.

3. Compact the soil

Use a plate compactor to compress the soil firmly, creating a flat surface for better stability.

Doing this will also prevent the paving slabs from shifting or sinking, so your new patio area lasts longer. 

4. Add barrier fabric

Here, you can add a layer of barrier fabric to protect the integrity of the soil, preventing contamination and weed growth. 

Simply unroll the fabric across the area and overlap the material by 100mm (4 inches) at the seams where the fabric edges meet to prevent soil from seeping through.

Lay the sub-base

5. Add type 1 MOT

Now, you can add the type 1 MOT into the excavated and compacted area. Start by pouring in the crushed stone and gravel mix on top of the soil and barrier fabric until it’s 100mm thick.

This will provide a strong and stable base for the paving slabs.

6. Compact the sub-base

Then, use the plate compactor to press down the sub-base until it’s level and firm, with no bumps. 

Make sure it’s spread out evenly to avoid an uneven base layer. 

Add sharp sand

7. Spread the sand

After that, spread a 30mm layer of sharp sand over the sub-base. We do this to create a smooth, level surface, ready for the slabs to sit neatly on top of. 

Once you’ve poured the sand onto the sub-base, use a rake to spread it evenly across the surface.

8. Level the surface 

Take your straightedge (or a plank of wood) and drag it across the top of the sand in a back-and-forth motion to level the surface— the sand should sit evenly across the entire area.

You can add a bit more sand to areas that are dipped and re-level the surface to make sure the bed is smooth, ready for the slabs.

Lay the paving slabs

9. Position the slabs

Begin to position your paving slabs, starting at one corner and working your way across. If you’re placing the slabs in a high-traffic area, use a wet mortar mix to lay the slabs and to movement.

Place each slab onto the sand bed one at a time and leave a gap of around 15mm between each one. You can use spacers for the gaps, ensuring they are consistent throughout the area.

10. Tap them into place 

Using your rubber mallet, gently tap the paving slabs into place so that the slabs sit level in the bedding layer. 

11. Check the alignment 

Now, use a spirit level to make sure the slabs are sitting level with one another— you don’t want to end up with an uneven pathway or patio area!

If you’re laying the slabs in a herringbone or basket weave pattern, check that the pattern aligns correctly as you go.

Install edge restraints

12. Place the edge restraints

Position edge restraints around the perimeter of your paving slabs to prevent them from shifting under pressure, constant use, and rainy weather.

Choose between:

• Timber edging– for a natural, rustic look. These can be nailed, screwed, or pegged into the ground. 
• Plastic edging– for a durable and low-maintenance option that’s resistant to harsh weather. Anchor these into the ground using stakes or nails.
• Metal edging– for a sleek, modern look, with options between galvanised steel or aluminium. Secure these into the ground with spikes or pins.

Leave a small gap (roughly 10-20mm) between the slabs and the restraint to allow for natural expansion and contraction.

13. Fix restraints into place

Then, dig a slight trench of 100mm deep around the edge of the paving with a spade or shovel for the edge restraints to sit in.

Compact the soil for a smooth base and install the restraints with different fixings, depending on the type you’ve chosen. After securing the restraints, backfill the trench with soil or a small amount of gravel to hold them in place

Jointing 

14. Fill the gaps

Now that the paving slabs are laid, you can fill in the gaps between each slab with jointing sand (or a mortar mix for a more permanent solution).

You can use a broom or brush to sweep the sand into the small gaps and leave it to naturally settle into the spaces to prevent weed growth.

Everything to know about EPDM roofing

You may have heard the term ‘EPDM roofing’ floating about, but you’re not quite sure what it actually is.

When it comes to flat roofing, few options are better than EPDM. Short for Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer, EPDM roofing is a go-to solution for UK homes and buildings, thanks to its incredible resistance to water, UV rays, and temperature fluctuations. 

Today, Beesley and Fildes will delve further into what this type of roofing is, when it should be used, and how to select the best option for your project. 

What is EPDM roofing?

EPDM roofing is a single-ply rubber membrane used for flat roofs, popular for both domestic and commercial applications. 

To install this type of roofing, you have to glue it directly to the substrate, making it a quick and simple option for time-constrained projects or DIY installations. It can also be mechanically fixed or ballasted with slabs or gravel, making it versatile and adaptable!

Its name might sound technical, but in practical terms, this type of roofing is a strong, flexible material that creates a watertight barrier for flat roofs. It works like magic! Most come in large rolls and various thicknesses (commonly 1.14 mm or 1.52 mm) and are compatible with timber, concrete, and certain insulation boards.

Once installed, EPDM can last up to 50 years.

Whether you need to upgrade a garage roof, home extension, garden room, office, or shed, EPDM won’t let you down. Its lightweight design means no extra structural support is needed; does it get any better than that?

How much does EPDM roofing cost?

On average, EPDM roofing costs around £45 per square metre.

However, prices can vary depending on the complexity of the installation, the roof's size, and the quality of the roofing material. 

The benefits of EPDM roofing

It’s no surprise that EPDM roofing is beloved by builders and roofers when it comes with so many benefits. 

Besides being relatively straightforward to install (saving you a lot of time and money), it also performs well and lasts for decades. But wait, there are plenty more benefits where that came from.

• Strong weather resistance: From heatwaves to heavy downpours, EPDM can handle it all. Its waterproof design means it doesn't absorb moisture and remains flexible, even in freezing conditions. Resistant to UV rays, it won't shrink or crack over time.
• Low maintenance: Yes, EPPM roofs are a godsend for people who don’t want to spend time on repairs and upkeep. All it needs is some occasional sweeping and a quick once-over after a storm to check everything is looking good. If any minor damage does occur, EPDM-compatible repair tape or adhesive will do the trick.
• Lightweight design: Unlike GRP or torch-on felt, EPDM is light and easy to handle. This makes it handy for small sheds, garages, and garden rooms where adding weight to the structure is a concern.
• Cost-effective: Since EPDM is relatively cheap to purchase, it’s ideal for budget-friendly jobs. This is ideal for homeowners or businesses looking to keep their overhead costs down. 
• Flexible design: As EPDM is flexible in nature, it can be laid to fit perfectly to various roof layouts, including awkward corners and angles. It’s suitable for cold and warm roof designs and can even be used under green roofing systems or solar panel installations. 
• Eco-friendly material: EPDM is a recyclable material, making it an ideal choice for eco-conscious builders and homeowners. It’s a great way to help a building meet green requirements and lower your carbon footprint.

Choosing the right EPDM system

Not all EPDM roof systems are the same, and to get the best results, you need to factor in the size, shape, and purpose of your roof. 

Fully adhered, mechanically fixed or ballasted?

There are three main ways to install EPDM roofs:

1. Fully adhered

Common for small domestic installations, fully adhered EPDM involves glueing the membrane directly onto the roof deck using water-based or contact adhesive.

Many people opt for this when installing this type of roof onto garages or sheds. It fits perfectly around complex shapes (e.g. pipes and skylights) and is highly resistant to harsh winds. 

2. Mechanically fixed 

Using a combination of fasteners and batten bars to secure the EPDM membrane to the roof structure, this system is more suited for large-scale projects, like commercial units or warehouses. 

Once fixed, the seams are sealed using cover strips and pressure-sensitive tape to keep everything in place. Mechanically fixed EPDM is quick and requires less adhesive than other methods. However, it does require more specialist tools, e.g., screw guns and seam rollers.

3. Ballasted

When using a ballasted EPDM roofing method, the material is dry-laid onto the surface and secured in place by gravel, paving slabs, or specially designed ballast.

However, this is more common for green roofs or commercial properties designed with load-bearing capability, rather than homes. It’s great for temporary installations, but constant maintenance is needed to prevent drains from clogging due to debris and loose ballast.

Membrane thickness

With a range of different thicknesses available, 1.14mm (also known as 0.045") and 1.52mm (0.060") EPDM are the most commonly used for residential roofs. 

• 1.14mm (standard): Suitable for the majority of residential roofing tasks. It's lightweight, pliable, and manageable, which is particularly helpful when installing around tight spaces.
• 1.52mm (heavy duty): For high-traffic areas, including roofs used for maintenance access, solar panel installation, or places where falling debris could be a concern.

Cleaning EPDM roofing

Once installed, EPDM roofing is fairly easy to maintain. Once or twice a year is usually enough to keep it in tip-top shape (with the exception of storms and harsh weather).

When cleaning your roof, avoid using harsh chemicals, such as bleach, solvents, or petroleum-based products, as these can break down the rubber, weakening your roof.

Instead, brush and rinse the roof with a hose on a low setting to remove any dirt and debris, then use an EPDM membrane cleaner to lightly scrub the surface. Always mix your cleaner with warm water and avoid using abrasive brushes. 

Once you’re done, simply hose off the suds and call it a day! 

Get started on your low-maintenance roof

At Beesley and Fildes, we have a wide range of EPDM roofing tools and materials to help you get started on your next roofing project. 

With a seamless finish, excellent durability, and unmatched flexibility, it’s no mystery why professional and DIY experts continue to choose EPDM for their residential and commercial roofing upgrades. 

And when you choose us, you also enjoy competitive prices, huge savings, and free delivery! Browse more of our roofing products today to stock up for your next job.

Case Study: Innov-8 Management Ltd | Mike Wolfenden

Collaborating with B&F and Andrea to Deliver Exceptional Natural Wood Cladding

When Innov-8 Management Ltd took on a residential project requiring natural timber cladding, they were met with both opportunity and challenge. With strict planning conditions set by the local council and a personal commitment to aesthetic excellence, finding the right solution wasn’t going to be easy. That’s when Mike Wolfenden and his team turned to B&F Specialist Timber and their expert, Andrea, to help navigate the complexities and deliver a result that exceeded expectations.

Product: 19 x 137mm Western Red Cedar TGV

   

Q&A with Mike Wolfenden

What problem or need led to this project?
The local council insisted that the cladding must be made of natural wood, not artificial or composite materials, which significantly narrowed our options and led us to this specific product.

What specific outcomes were you aiming for?
We wanted a cladding solution that was both visually appealing and built to last, something that would meet both our expectations and the council’s strict guidelines. Finding a material that checked all those boxes was much harder than we anticipated!

What tools, technologies, or methods did you use?
We relied heavily on the expertise of Andrea at B&F Specialist Timber. She guided us through the entire selection process, not just in choosing the right type of wood, but also in ensuring that the colour match was absolutely precise. Her attention to detail was invaluable.

How did you find working with Andrea at B&F Specialist Timber?
Honestly, I don’t think we would have completed this project without her. Her initial recommendations were spot-on, and when our builders created a few issues during installation, she was there to provide additional support. Andrea really went above and beyond.

What are you most proud of about the project?
Seeing the final result in person was incredibly rewarding. At first, I was a bit concerned that the colour contrast might be too stark, but once the windows and glass balcony were installed, everything came together perfectly. It completely transformed the house.

  

Conclusion

This project showcases the power of expert collaboration and thoughtful design. Thanks to the dedication of Innov-8, the unwavering support from Andrea at B&F Specialist Timber, and the insistence on using quality natural materials, the end result is a striking home exterior that satisfies both regulatory requirements and the client’s creative vision.

 

Mike Wolfenden
“Thank you so much for everything you’ve done—it’s massively appreciated!”

Case Study: Restoring a Fire-Damaged Home with Engineered Timber Excellence

Overview

Fire damage can be catastrophic, but with the right expertise and resources, recovery is possible. At Beesley & Fildes, we’re proud to highlight a remarkable restoration project that turned disaster into a story of craftsmanship, collaboration, and innovation.

Our Engineered Timber Services department partnered with Cuncannon Ltd, a Skelmersdale-based specialist in Fire & Flood Restoration, to rebuild a severely fire-damaged home. Working closely with our Design team, Cuncannon led the charge in bringing the property back to life. With the help of our high-performance Roof Trusses, we supplied the structural timber elements that enabled a smooth and successful transformation.

    

Interview with Anthony, Operations Manager at Cuncannon Ltd

Q: What problem or need led to this project?
A: The property we were assigned to had been severely affected by a neighbouring house fire. Flames and smoke spread rapidly, causing significant structural damage. We were appointed by AED Loss Adjusting Services to oversee the restoration. The scope required a comprehensive structural assessment and the complete replacement of the original roof system, which had been compromised beyond repair.

Q: What specific outcomes were you aiming for? 
A: The original property had a traditional cut roof, which we viewed as an opportunity for improvement. Our aim was to redesign and upgrade it to a trussed roof system. This approach would not only restore the structure's integrity but also enhance the speed, efficiency, and accuracy of the installation.

Q: What tools, technologies, or methods did you use during the project?
A: The transition to a trussed roof required careful measurement and coordination. We utilised a crane to install the prefabricated trusses safely. This modern approach enabled us to reduce on-site labour and minimise material waste while maintaining excellent structural performance.

Q: How did you find working with Ian Moran & Paul Amphlett at Beesley & Fildes?
A: Very helpful—The communication was smooth, and their support made a real difference to the project.

Q: What are you most proud of about this project?
A: Several things stand out. First, the speed of the turnaround—we were able to get the structure weatherproof much quicker thanks to the pre-engineered solutions. Secondly, the customer service from Beesley & Fildes was top-notch, which made our job much easier. Finally, the quality of the timber products supplied—everything fit exactly as designed, and the reliability of the materials gave our team confidence throughout the build.

    

Conclusion

This project is a powerful example of how modern timber engineering and strong collaboration can breathe new life into even the most damaged structures. From design to delivery, Beesley & Fildes’ Engineered Timber Services played a key role in turning a fire-damaged house into a safe, structurally sound home once more.

Whether you're dealing with a restoration, new build, or redesign, our custom-designed Roof Trusses provide the performance, speed, and efficiency today’s projects demand.

Learn more about how our Engineered Timber Services can support your next project: